Ian's Tanzania Blog: Ngorongoro Crater

The view as the sun came up outside our room at 6:15. View from our balcony down into the misty crater was pretty cool as was the 15 minute drive to the entrance. Clouds and mist and shimmer of rising sun.

The Ngorogoro Conservation area's main feature is the Crater, a large, unbroken, unflooded volcanic caldera. The crater, which formed when a giant volcano exploded and collapsed on itself two to three million years ago, is 2,000 ft deep and its floor covers 260 sq. km It is about seventeen thousand feet high.

Although thought of as "a natural enclosure" for a very wide variety of wildlife, up to 20% or more of the wildebeest and half the zebra populations vacate the Crater in the wet season. A side effect of this enclosure is that the population of Ngorongoro lions is significantly inbred, with many genetic problems passed from generation to generation. This is due to the very small amount of new bloodlines that enter the local gene pool, as very few migrating male lions enter the crater from the outside. Those who do enter the crater are often prevented from contributing to the gene pool by the crater's male lions, who, because of their large size due to lots to eat given the constant food source, easily expel any outside competitors. Animal populations in the crater include most of the species but there are no impalas, topis, oribis, giraffes or crocodiles.

The crater highlands on the side facing the easterly trade winds receives 800–1200 mm of rain a year and is covered largely in forest,while the less-steep west wall receives only 400–600 mm; this side is grassland and bushland. The crater floor is mostly open grassland with two small wooded areas dominated by Acacia trees. Rivers and small springs can be found around the crater's floor, and these are important water supplies for the animals and local Masaai, especially during times of drought.

Aside from herds of zebra, gazelle, and wildebeest, the crater is home to the "big five" of black rhinoceros, lion, leopard, elephant and buffalo. The crater plays host to almost every individual species of wildlife in East Africa, with an estimated 25 000 animals within the crater. Maasai are now permitted to graze their cattle within the crater, but must enter and exit daily.

Into the Land Cruisers at 7:30 to enter the crater. Ross with his shuka in hand was right on time .. tapping his foot and expressing interest in leaving on time ... don't make this guy wait!!

Shades of green and grey on the hillsides with the moisture and changing light .. another sight to support my argument that Africa is a photographers dream.

A Maasai greeted the drivers who collected the $200 per Mzungu carrying vehicles and approx $5 for the Tanzanian's. Kind of an odd photo with the running jacket reflections! We decend down into the crater.

What the pictures don't really show is the number of animals ... you tend to take individual shots and my little camera is not best at broader landscapes like some of the others I will add in later. We have seen all of the "big five" and were treated to 1,000's of more of these incredible creatures again today. Both big and small including some very interesting birds.

The crater has a large lake that is home to hundreds of pink flamingos. Again the low clouds with sun peaking through made for some very cool shots. I like the two zebra that happened to be part of the action.

Landscapes including some buffalo and hippos.

We continue to enjoy each others company. The vehicles are plenty big and sharing the whole experience just continues between us. Even Ross got happy as the day progressed.

Again today we saw many lions... most laying about after having a good kill that provides a meal that lasts 3 day. And one in particular that appeared to be on the look our for some wildebeest or zebra.

We stopped for lunch in a forested area. I just stair at the trees here. These are the Yellow Barked Acacia that the British first associated with yellow fever in error .. and the Quinine Tree ... both very prominant in this area. Nicholas tips his cap as Claudio tunes Maria up as her new husband! Evelyn is styl'n as usual!!

The number of animals and mix of animals is fascinating as they come together and you look out across the 300 square kilometer crater floor.

You get the sense life is pretty basic here at times ... everything seems to play a role including the scavengers. the hyena has a buffalo leg likely left over after the lions feasted.

Vulture

We had our lunch by a lake and were very cautious of kites (birds) that are like large hawks that swoop down and are eager to try and take your food if you eat outside