Weekend in Zanzibar - never a dull moment!

With our mid-term report in the can and ready for Monday mornings presentations we departed Morogoro  a tired bunch in our team bus at 5 am.   I woke on the bus at 7 to the smell of fires and poked my head up to see Tanzanian's living along the highway sparking up wood fires to cook morning meals.  A haze of smoke in the hot moist morning air.  Too sleepy to take any photos I tried to sleep as we lurched through the madness weaving in and out of traffic to make the 9:30 boat to Zanzibar.               More on this image below!

With ferry tickets in hand  ... and with no time to spare we rushed to Precision Air to get our return flight tickets only to find after they were all printed that the return flight time was Sunday was wrong.  With payment disputed but made... and a loose agreement to pick up re-issued tickets somewhere in Zanzibar Shaun and I raced out of their offices after 9:00 (much to the surprise of the fellow who had become our uninvited assistant's suprise) for the ferry terminal.   OK.... lets just say locals are not seen moving at any speed resembling fast in this heat... so you can imagine the sight they saw as two fair skinned gents (Shaun and I) raced full out, with a hand full of documents (plane tickets) down the street with our unofficial guide chasing after us calling out for a tip.  It looked like a robbery... and I was honestly waiting for someone to tackle me.  (NO TIME FOR A PICTURE SORRY).  Back safely we boarded the bus we grabbed our  luggage only to find our new friend waiting once again for payment.  People are quick to help in order to receive commission.. an accepted practice and helpful at times... at other times... not so much!

Next up a group of porters grabbed our bags and carried them unasked to the loading dock which led to another undesired negotiation on payment.  

On board we got our first glimpse of Dar from the water as we turned and headed out to sea.  Off to Zanzibar!!
















An hour and a half later we arrived in Zanzibar eager to see Stonetown and hit the beach ... only to be detained for 3 hours  due to a recent change in rules our Visa's were incorrect and required a $200 for all ...   or was it $500 for some?  A bit of a surprise given March 2 all was in order when we arrived in Tanzania. After some very pointed senior phone calls between us, our in country support team, and senior local  authorities we were allowed to enter.... a tad overheated.   Welcome to Zanzibar.

Arab and Portuguese traders visited  this region in early times.Britain established its presence in 1890.  It became an independent in December 1963 and a republic after an uprising in January 1964. In 64 it joined Tanganyika to form a new republic that was renamed Tanzania in October 1964. The capital of Zanzibar, located on the island is Stone Town ... a World Heritage Site. Zanzibar's is well known for spices (cloves, cinnamon, pepper) and tourism.  You may have heard the term the Spice Islands.


Something that continues to fascinates me is the propensity for people (mostly women as they appear to do more than their share of the heavy lifting) to carry things on their heads.  A few of the sights as we watched 2 or three more fairies come in while we waited.

Once allowed in and hungry we hit a seaside restaurant... just as Iain Thompson described... this is what we saw looking out.

 

And looking in... mango juice and Zanzibar praws... Ross (USA), Xaio (China), Ashish (India) and Augusto (Costa Rica).

I my have mention the amazing sights you see on the road....certainly the most colorful to date .. a bike from behind with what appears to be plastic items for sale.  The fellow behind that pile was pedalling his tail off keeping everything moving forward.

Zanzibar is well know as a major point of departure for slaves.  I was surprising to learn that often African tribal leaders traded their own people ... or their enemies ... for the items they received in exchange. What follows is the sign on entry to a church, and other powerful images that caused us to reflect on human behavior that over time becomes even more atrocious and difficult to understand/accept.

By coincidence the choir was rehearsing.. incredible. The director was amazing.

Outside of the church under a tree was a sunken monument to the slaves.... including original chains.  I travelled with family to Eastern Europe in the summer and saw amazing symbols chronicling world war atrocities... this was as powerful

On the street a fellow started at $50 for this shirt ...  bargaining is a sport here.   I showed some initial interest so was trailed for a block even asking our guide to make it clear I was not interested.  Eventually price became so ridiculous at 2 for $14 I bought.

Back to the hotel for a shower and out to just an amazing food market This was a half block square area where in a carnival atmosphere local delights were cooked and displayed by some very vocal vendors.  The fellow is pressing sugar cane into juice....I ended up having kind of a pancake type of pizza... that some local medical students Augusto befriended assured us would be good for our digestive system... we continue to be a bit cautious.

Jonathon took this one (and one above) .. our guide Ishmail, Petra, Maria and me... lighting looks like I am a contestant on "Survivor Tanzania".

Finally to end a very long day ... and given it was St. Patrick's Day ... we visited a sea-side beach bar for a night cap. Once again my fashion sense was outstanding ... with little lime green tie over T-shirt number!! Mexco, Spain, moi, Austrailia, India, US, Cost Rica, Ireland, China... and a guy who noticed the St. Patty's day tie so came by to chat.   His sister (working on Democractic reform in Sudan for peanuts...tough assignment!) .. took the pic.

Day 2.... an hour drive up the coast and some of the worlds most amazing beaches. Kendra Rocks Beach

Put your "sunnies" on (Shaun's Australian word for sun glasses) ..  on before looking at the this one!  

The artist  ... something for my office at home. 

Beach 2....  fun in the sun and sand .... working boats ... and boat building.

This was pretty amazing... these fellows below were polling back to shore with their netted catch. After a price was negotiated ... the women were allow to wade out to unload the fish.  Look at that water... and color.

  

A couple of my favorites for sure.. ready girls?

Waters nice  ...  lets go get the fish!!

The team has come to expect the unexpected in Africa.  It continued when this amazing but dangerous rock outcrop came into play.  About 30 seconds after this photo was taken by Pearl ...  Jonathan was caught by surprise ...  which led us on another unforgettable event.... a visit to a local clinic. 

Here is the patient thanking the doctor ... and sporting a new look.  Coolest Irishman in Zanzibar I figure!!

Our local guide dropped all of us off at the airport for a planned 20:40 departure for Dar-es Salaam.  Action packed 36 hours for sure.... mid-term report presentations starting at 10 am. Monday.